Motorcycle Balkans tour : between the Adriatic, wild mountains and the legacy of empires
There are still regions in Europe where you feel as though you’re travelling far afield. Places where the landscape is constantly changing, where the borders tell a complex story, and where every day on the road holds its own share of surprises. The Balkans are one such rare destination.
From Italy to Croatia, by Slovenia
Our adventure begins in Trieste, Italy’s last major port before the Balkans. Very quickly, the first few kilometres take us towards Slovenia and the Istrian coast. In Piran, the Venetian-style narrow streets lead down to the Adriatic, whilst the lively terraces offer a taste of what’s to come. A few kilometres further on, the atmosphere has already changed. The hills of inland Istria reveal the hilltop villages of Grožnjan and Motovun. Amidst medieval ramparts, vineyards and forests renowned for their truffles, time seems to have stopped.
The road then leads to the sea and the beautiful town of Rovinj. Its colourful facades, harbour and Mediterranean atmosphere give a taste of what lies ahead further south. For the Croatian Adriatic coast is surely one of the most beautiful coastal routes in Europe.
From Senj to Zadar, the road follows a succession of coves, islands and cliffs overlooking the turquoise waters of the Adriatic. Mountains to the left, the sea to the right. The bends come one after another in a setting that seems to have been designed for motorcyclists.
Dalmatia then reveals its treasures. Skradin, Trogir, Omiš and then Dubrovnik appear like a series of living postcards. Venetian, Ottoman and Austro-Hungarian influences intertwine in the cobbled streets, historic harbours and ancient fortifications. In Dubrovnik, the city walls overlook the sea in a unique light that leaves a lasting impression on visitors.
Montenegro
Montenegro then proved to be one of the trip’s biggest surprises. The Bay of Kotor emerges between the sea and the mountains in an almost surreal setting. Perast, with its Venetian palaces, seems to float above the water, whilst Kotor reveals its incredible walled city, dominated by steep mountains.
A few hours later, the Adriatic is already fading from view in the rear-view mirrors. The road climbs towards Lovćen National Park before heading inland. The landscapes become wilder, more rugged and more mountainous. Durmitor and the Piva Canyon offer some of the most beautiful scenery on the entire Balkan Peninsula. The roads wind between cliffs, high plateaus and isolated valleys where you sometimes come across more sheep than cars.
Bosnia and Herzegovina
Entering Bosnia and Herzegovina marks the start of a new chapter in the journey. Here, history is everywhere. In Tjentište, the huge concrete monument rises up amidst the mountains like a relic from another world. Further south, Blagaj and Počitelj serve as a reminder of the Ottoman heritage that has left a deep mark on the region.
Next comes Mostar
It’s impossible to remain indifferent to the famous Stari Most, which spans the emerald waters of the Neretva. The lively terraces, minarets and stone houses create a unique atmosphere, at the crossroads of the East and Europe. A local English-speaking guide introduces us to the city with a stroll through the old town: the little stone bridge, the famous Mostar Bridge, and the best view of it from the terrace of a mosque…
As you follow the Neretva Valley, the landscape shifts between rugged gorges, peaceful villages and lush, green mountains.
The Kravica Waterfalls, the historic town of Jajce and the rugged peaks of the Dinaric Alps then mark the journey northwards. Each day reveals a new facet of the Balkans – by turns Mediterranean, mountainous and oriental – always offering a change of scenery.
The former underground airbase at Željava marks another highlight of the journey. This vast abandoned military complex, buried deep within the mountain, serves as a stark reminder of how much the region’s recent history is still evident in the landscape.
Back to Croatia
Then nature reclaims its place. The lakes and waterfalls of Plitvice National Park offer a striking contrast to the historic sites visited in the previous days. The turquoise waters wind their way through the forests in one of Croatia’s most beautiful natural settings.
Slovenia
Slovenia finally welcomes us for the final days of our trip. Ljubljana immediately charms us with its elegance and relaxed way of life. The banks of the Ljubljanica, the colourful facades and the lively terraces offer a particularly pleasant break from the mountains after several days in the hills.
Lake Bled provides the perfect finale to this adventure. Its island, church and the peaks of the Julian Alps combine to form one of Central Europe’s most famous landscapes. The final few kilometres through the Slovenian Alps offer one last chance to enjoy the pleasure of the open road before heading back to Italy.
This motorcyle Balkan tour is much more than just a motorbike trip. It is an immersion in a region of many faces, where cultures, religions, landscapes and histories intertwine. A land of contrasts where, in the space of a few hours, you can go from the shores of the Adriatic to the wildest mountains in South-Eastern Europe.
And it is precisely this diversity that makes the Balkans so captivating. Every bend in the road tells a different story.
A trip to be enjoyed as a group, either as a guided tour or a self-guided tour.